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A man with open arms in a golden rice field

2 min readPhoto Essays

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Rice: the year of a field in Vietnam

From transplanting in water to the gold of harvest, a rice field changes colour through the season. An essay on rice as calendar, landscape and work.

A weather vane against a pale sky

2 min readLife

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Reading the seasons in two places

Northern Vietnam has four seasons you can name by smell. Southern Taiwan has heat, plum rains and typhoons. Notes on learning a new calendar of weather.

Hội An old town by the river at dusk

2 min readTravel

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Hội An old town: practical notes

Yellow walls, the Thu Bồn river and lanterns at night. Hội An is famous for good reasons, and a few simple choices make it much more enjoyable.

Round basket boats on turquoise water

1 min readVietnam

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The central coast: boats, nets and basket boats

A long, narrow coastline where fishing still shapes the day: round basket boats, nets drawn in turquoise water, and a sea that can be both generous and rough.

Lotus flowers, a teapot and fresh vegetables on a wooden table

2 min readLife

Views: 0

Tea in a Vietnamese home

In Vietnam, tea is less a drink than a gesture. Notes on green tea, lotus tea and the cup of iced tea on the pavement.

A river winding through a deep canyon in Hà Giang

2 min readVietnam

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The Đồng Văn Karst Plateau: a geopark made of stone

On Vietnam's far northern border, a high limestone plateau records hundreds of millions of years of geological history, and the communities living on it have learned to farm between the rocks.

Farmers transplanting rice on curved terraces

1 min readPeople

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Farmers in the fields of Vietnam

Transplanting rice on curved terraces, conical hats bent over green rows: the work behind Vietnam's most photographed landscapes.

Red lanterns and a bicycle by an old wall in Hội An

2 min readVietnam

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Hội An, a trading port through the centuries

Before it was a lantern-lit old town, Hội An was a river port where Champa, Japanese, Chinese and European traders passed through. How trade built the town, and how the end of trade preserved it.