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Osaka Castle above its stone walls and trees

2 min readJapan

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Osaka: merchant city and the nation's kitchen

Osaka grew up around trade rather than a court. Its castle, its canals and its famous appetite for street food all come from that merchant past. A profile of Japan's most down-to-earth big city.

Osaka Castle's main tower against a blue sky

2 min readTravel

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Osaka Castle, and how to read a Japanese castle

Osaka Castle is one of Japan's best-known landmarks. A little history helps you see what is original, what is rebuilt, and why the stone walls matter most.

Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion, reflected in its pond in Kyoto

1 min readPlaces

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Kyoto: the Golden Pavilion and Ryōan-ji

Two Zen temples in northern Kyoto, one covered in gold leaf, one known for restraint, and the moss and stone that surround them.

A wooden temple hall among maple trees at Ryōan-ji, Kyoto

2 min readJapan

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Kyoto: layers of a former imperial capital

For more than a thousand years Kyoto was where Japan's emperors lived. The city today is a set of layers: a grid plan from the 8th century, temples from many eras, and an ordinary modern city in between.

Two hands holding a cup of matcha latte

2 min readLife

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Matcha, from tea ceremony to latte

Matcha has travelled from Japanese tea rooms to cafés all over the world. What it actually is, how it is made, and why it tastes the way it does.

Koi fish swimming in clear turquoise water

1 min readMoments

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Koi and still water

Koi in clear turquoise water, a torii gate standing in a calm lake, pavilions doubled by their reflections.

Commuters crossing a sunlit Tokyo street

2 min readJapan

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Tokyo: a city of many centres

Tokyo has no single downtown. It is a ring of districts, each with its own station, mood and history, held together by trains. A short profile of how the city grew and how to read it.

A woman in kimono under cherry blossoms with Mount Fuji behind

1 min readPeople

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Kimono under the cherry blossoms

Silk, blossom and a snow-capped mountain: portraits that bring together some of the most familiar images of a Japanese spring.