Osaka grew up around trade rather than a court. Its castle, its canals and its famous appetite for street food all come from that merchant past. A profile of Japan's most down-to-earth big city.
Osaka Castle is one of Japan's best-known landmarks. A little history helps you see what is original, what is rebuilt, and why the stone walls matter most.
For more than a thousand years Kyoto was where Japan's emperors lived. The city today is a set of layers: a grid plan from the 8th century, temples from many eras, and an ordinary modern city in between.
Kyoto has Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines side by side, and each has its own small customs. Knowing a few of them makes a visit calmer for everyone.
Tokyo has no single downtown. It is a ring of districts, each with its own station, mood and history, held together by trains. A short profile of how the city grew and how to read it.
A torii does not keep anything out. It simply tells you that you are crossing from one kind of space into another. A short essay on gates, tunnels and thresholds.