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Osaka Castle's main tower against a blue sky

2 min readTravel

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Osaka Castle, and how to read a Japanese castle

Osaka Castle is one of Japan's best-known landmarks. A little history helps you see what is original, what is rebuilt, and why the stone walls matter most.

A wooden temple hall among maple trees at Ryōan-ji, Kyoto

2 min readJapan

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Kyoto: layers of a former imperial capital

For more than a thousand years Kyoto was where Japan's emperors lived. The city today is a set of layers: a grid plan from the 8th century, temples from many eras, and an ordinary modern city in between.

Red lanterns and a bicycle by an old wall in Hội An

2 min readVietnam

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Hội An, a trading port through the centuries

Before it was a lantern-lit old town, Hội An was a river port where Champa, Japanese, Chinese and European traders passed through. How trade built the town, and how the end of trade preserved it.

Carved and gilded eaves of a temple

3 min readTaiwan

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Tainan, the old capital

Taiwan's oldest city was its capital for more than two centuries. Today it is known for temples on almost every street, slow afternoons and food that leans a little sweet.