Taiwan's east coast by train

Most visitors to Taiwan stay on the west side, where the big cities and the high-speed rail are. The east is different: a narrow strip of land between steep mountains and the Pacific Ocean, with smaller towns, more space and a strong presence of Taiwan's Indigenous communities.

Getting there

The Taiwan Railway (TRA) runs along the east coast from Taipei through Yilan to Hualien, and on to Taitung. Express trains such as the Puyuma and Taroko services are the fastest, and they are popular, so book a seat in advance, especially around weekends and holidays. Slower local trains stop everywhere and are a good way to see the small stations.

Hualien

Hualien is the usual base for Taroko Gorge, a marble canyon cut by the Liwu River. Parts of the gorge have had long closures after earthquakes and landslides, so check the official national park information before you plan around it. The town itself is relaxed, with a long seafront and good food.

Down the coast to Taitung

Between Hualien and Taitung there are two routes: the railway through the inland East Rift Valley, and the coastal highway. The coast has some of the most beautiful scenery in Taiwan, including Sanxiantai, an islet connected to the shore by a long arched footbridge. Buses run along the coast, but a scooter or car gives you more freedom if you are comfortable driving.

Tips

• The east is quieter, and some places close early. Plan dinners accordingly.
• Typhoons usually come between summer and autumn; watch the forecast.
• Carry cash for small shops and homestays.
• Bring sun protection; there is little shade along the coast.

The east coast is not a place to rush. Give it a few days and let the train set the pace.

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Photos: purrlicious, nameks, allanlau2000 on Pixabay, used under the Pixabay Content License. These are not my photographs.