Hà Giang: notes for a first trip north
Vietnam's northernmost province is all limestone, switchbacks and river canyons. A few things worth knowing before you go.
Hà Giang sits at the very top of Vietnam, pressed against the border with China. Most people come for the road: a loop of mountain passes that climbs onto the Đồng Văn Karst Plateau, recognised as a UNESCO Global Geopark in 2010.
The road
The best-known stretch is the Mã Pí Lèng pass between Đồng Văn and Mèo Vạc. Far below it, the Nho Quế river cuts a green ribbon through the canyon. The usual way to see it is the "Hà Giang loop", three or four days by motorbike from Hà Giang city through Quản Bạ, Yên Minh, Đồng Văn and Mèo Vạc.
If you have not ridden mountain roads before, hiring a local driver ("easy rider") is the sensible choice. The bends are tight, trucks are large, and the weather changes quickly.
When to go
- September to November: clear skies, rice harvest in the valleys, and buckwheat flowers on the plateau from around October
- March and April: plum and peach blossoms, mild temperatures
- Winter: cold and often foggy at altitude, sometimes frost
Be a good guest
The plateau is home to H'Mông, Dao, Tày and other communities. Ask before photographing people, buy from local homestays and markets, and keep in mind that the views are someone's fields.
Photos: 9927881, tienco85, minh82bn on Pixabay, used under the Pixabay Content License. These are not my photographs.
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