A slow walk around Hoàn Kiếm Lake

If you only have a little time in Hanoi, start at Hoàn Kiếm Lake. It sits right in the centre, between the Old Quarter to the north and the French-era streets to the south, and a loop around it takes well under an hour at a slow pace.

The legend

The name means "Lake of the Returned Sword". In the story, the 15th-century leader Lê Lợi received a magic sword that helped him drive out the Ming army. After the victory, while boating on the lake, he met a golden turtle who asked for the sword back, and he returned it. The small Turtle Tower on an islet in the lake is the image most people associate with Hanoi.

Ngọc Sơn Temple

On the northern side, the red wooden Thê Húc bridge leads to Ngọc Sơn Temple, on another small island. It is dedicated to several figures, including the general Trần Hưng Đạo. Dress modestly, keep your voice low, and leave a small donation if you light incense.

When to go

• Early morning: the lake belongs to the people of Hanoi. Groups do exercises, dance and play badminton along the shore. It is the best time to see the city waking up.
• Weekend evenings: the streets around the lake are closed to traffic and become a walking area, full of families, street performers and games.
• Autumn: many Hanoians would say this is the city's best season, with cooler air and clear light.

Around the lake

From the lake, the Old Quarter spreads north in a tangle of short streets, many still named after the goods once sold there. Take one at random, and stop for a coffee on a low plastic stool when you get tired.

Crossing the road takes practice: walk at a steady pace, do not stop suddenly, and let the motorbikes flow around you.

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Photos: mylns65hoasphn, amvphoto, tho on Pixabay, used under the Pixabay Content License. These are not my photographs.