Taitung and Sanxiantai: Taiwan facing the Pacific

Taitung County runs along the southeastern coast of Taiwan, between the Central Mountain Range and the Pacific Ocean. It is one of the least densely populated parts of the island, and much of its character comes from that space: long empty beaches, rice fields in the valleys, and mountains that seem to start right behind the houses.

Land between two ranges

The county has three main landscapes. The coast, where the Coastal Mountain Range drops steeply into the sea and Provincial Highway 11 follows the shore. The East Rift Valley, a long, flat corridor between the Coastal and Central ranges, with farms and small towns. And the mountains themselves, rising towards the island's high spine. Offshore lie Green Island, with coral reefs and a former prison for political prisoners that is now a human rights memorial park, and Orchid Island, home of the Tao (Yami) people.

The valley

The rice of Chishang is well known across Taiwan, and the flat fields around it are among the most open landscapes on the island. Further south, on the Luye Gaotai plateau, a hot air balloon festival has been held each summer since the early 2010s, and balloons have become part of the county's image.

Indigenous Taiwan

A large share of Taitung's people belong to Taiwan's Indigenous peoples, including the Amis, Puyuma, Paiwan, Bunun, Rukai and Tao. Harvest festivals, usually held in summer, are among the most important events of the year in many villages. Some welcome respectful visitors; it is always better to ask first.

Sanxiantai

On the coast of Chenggong Township, Sanxiantai, the "Platform of the Three Immortals", is a small rocky islet. Its name comes from a legend that three of the Eight Immortals of Chinese myth once rested there. A long footbridge with eight arches connects it to the shore, and since nothing lies to the east but open ocean, it is one of the classic places in Taiwan to watch the sun rise.

When to go

Autumn and spring are usually the most comfortable seasons. Summer is hot and full of festivals, but it is also typhoon season, and the east coast is often exposed to storms coming from the Pacific. Taitung can be reached by train, either down the east coast or across the south from Kaohsiung, and by domestic flights.

Taitung is not a place for ticking off sights. It suits travellers who are happy with fewer things to see and more room to see them in.

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Photos: purrlicious, iteaworld on Pixabay, used under the Pixabay Content License. These are not my photographs.